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Ad Astra: Pum Lefebure on Why Designers Dream Alone

29/10/2024
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The Design Army co-founder talks to Laura Swinton about the language of creativity, the importance of art history and why you鈥檒l never find her following trends
Pum Lefebure kicks off our interview by interviewing me. What鈥檚 the objective of the interview, and how do we make sure it鈥檚 useful and different? And if I had to describe Design Army, the agency she founded with her husband Jake, in one word, what would it be?

Immediately it reveals Pum as a consummate designer with a sense of intention, purpose and curiosity. Someone who approaches life as she does design, that is to say, not content to see things and do things as they鈥檝e always been seen and done. 

Whether it鈥檚 moving from Bangkok to the US and then applying for a college scholarship there without telling her parents, or consciously bucking the advice to compartmentalise her work life and family life by bringing her then baby daughter to work or on shoots, Pum is someone who would rather entrust her fate to craft rather than chance and who values an original vision.

As we鈥檒l see, that鈥檚 also baked into her approach to creativity. She sees every project as a potential launchpad for something beautiful and new. When she hears people complaining about a boring or 鈥榰ncool鈥 project, what she sees is a need to look harder to find the beauty in it.

鈥淕uys, the best project is the one on your desk right now. Control your destiny. Work on passionately crafting something because no one is going to say no to something well-crafted and well-designed. Make a one colour, low budget project the best it can be. Let鈥檚 make that the goal. Let鈥檚 inspire everyone.鈥

For Pum, art and design is a language, and one she鈥檚 been practising since her childhood days when a blank piece of paper and box of colour pencils would keep her engrossed for hours as her friends and siblings chased each other around and played with Barbie dolls. An elementary school teacher noticed her talent and mentioned it to her scientist parents, who made sure their eldest daughter had access to all manner of creative activities, from painting to music and dance. She was, she says, something of a shy child. Art gave her a voice, a loud one, and she鈥檚 been building her creative vocabulary ever since.

Before the days of Design Army, that skill allowed her to be heard as a young, female creative in a room full of braggadocious male colleagues.

鈥淚 remember in my first job, I鈥檇 sit down in the conference room and you鈥檇 have the creative director and everyone would be flexing their muscles. English is my second language. I wouldn鈥檛 know what they鈥檙e talking about, so I just started drawing and sketching while I鈥檓 listening. I鈥檓 like, my mind is already here. I have an idea but I鈥檓 gonna shout quietly and show you my sketch of what i think this visual billboard should be, because a billboard doesn鈥檛 fucking talk. It鈥檚 there. You either see it or you don鈥檛. That鈥檚 why our work is visual above all else. It has to capture you instantly and that鈥檚 hard to do.鈥

That experience shaped Pum鈥檚 approach to creative leadership, which is to make sure that those who are quiet, like she was, don鈥檛 get drowned out by louder, more confident voices. It鈥檚 also an approach that she believes engenders more singular, original visions and ideas.

She says when she describes that process to people outside of Design Army, they don鈥檛 believe her. She explicitly wants people to work alone before coming together - design by committee this is not. 

鈥淭here is no kumbaya at Design Army. We do not sit down and have brainstorming sessions,鈥 she says. 鈥淵ou know why? As an artist, as a designer, when you dream, you dream alone. You sleep as a group, but my dream is not the same as your dream. We all have our own dream.鈥 

Designers are sent off alone, with the brief and sketchbook, going in 20 different directions. A week later, they bring together all of the dreams. 鈥淚 go one by one, and the reason I do that is because [otherwise] I鈥檓 going to take over the whole conversation as the senior creative director. I want to hear everyone鈥檚 dream and start to see crossover. Then we group the dream, curate the dream and that becomes our story.鈥

Those sketchbooks are all important. As much as art is a language, it鈥檚 also a way of seeing and Pum requires her designers to sketch their ideas. This enables them to ensure that they鈥檙e not simply pulling references and compositions that have been done before, but there鈥檚 also something in the alchemical process of drawing by hand that unlocks subconscious fragments and connections, that don鈥檛 always immediately make sense but that bring a pure creativity to designs.

鈥淚 believe if you can鈥檛 sketch, you can鈥檛 see. As a writer, if you can鈥檛 write, you cannot see in your head. That鈥檚 the problem I have with some of the education that is happening right now. You just pull stuff from Pinterest, and I鈥檓 like... 鈥楾hat鈥檚 not your idea guys鈥,鈥 says Pum. When she asks young designers about their process, her heart leaps when they tell her they sketch everything - but those who start from a place of research and piecing together things they鈥檝e found, might struggle at Design Army.

It鈥檚 an approach that also helps with Design Army鈥檚 international team of artists - Pum says, 鈥渄rawing creates a universal language鈥 and Design Army is a 鈥渧isual-first firm鈥. 

When Pum talks about art and design as a language, she also talks about the vocabulary of art history. It鈥檚 important that designers have a true depth of knowledge. Do you know Picasso鈥檚 Blue Period and the Renaissance? What about the taboo-busting Oliviero Toscani United Colors of Benetton campaigns from the 90s? (Incidentally, it was stumbling across those campaigns in COLORS magazine that inspired a young Pum to explore advertising as a career, not least the infamous photograph of a priest kissing a nun, which scandalised and intrigued her. She had attended Catholic school her whole life.)

This depth of knowledge always ends up enhancing campaigns, popping up like a wildflower through a crack in the road. With the recent , for example, it features an acid green alien who was dreamt up and shot months before the 2024 Brat Summer. How did they land on such an of-the-moment colour? By looking to the past - as it turns out many of Degas鈥 ballerina pastels and paintings are slashed with bright lime green accents.

On the flipside, by being keyed into social media Pum and the Design Army team can be attuned to trends, and therefore what to avoid. 鈥淵ou have to have the pulse of what鈥檚 going on with trends to be able to make smart decisions, what not to do and what not to follow,鈥 she says. 鈥淭rends are there for me not to follow. It鈥檚 there to avoid, because what we do for clients is a year out, two years out. Whatever is trending should give an insight of what people like now, and you鈥檇 use that information to predict.鈥

Having a broad and deep visual vocabulary also proved itself to be immeasurably useful in early 2023鈥檚 Adventures in A-EYE, for long time client Georgetown Opticians. One of the earliest big creative experiments in that wave of generative AI experimental campaigns, Adventures in A-EYE picked up a lot of coverage at the time for its unusual aesthetics and ambitious storytelling and will stand alongside Heinz鈥檚 Draw Ketchup as documentary evidence when people look back on the dawn of gen AI in advertising in years to come. 

The campaign revolves around high fashion Mars explorers, who have to wear glasses to protect their eyes from the harsh dry air and UV light. It took Pum months to train the AI to understand what she wanted (she describes her role as 鈥榓lmost like the mom of AI鈥) and to train herself how to write prompts. It took many long, frustrating sessions of Midjourney spewing out people with seven fingers and three eyeballs - and then her knowledge of art and photography came in to save the day.

鈥淢y prompt is a very long explanation. I have been in the business long enough that I can say: 鈥榯his one should be in 35mm Kodak film, the light source is coming from the left of the camera, shooting in the morning mist with a little bit of smog鈥. I just describe what鈥檚 in my head, and sometimes it doesn鈥檛 even make sense and then it spits out an image,鈥 explains Pum.

鈥淸It goes] back to the knowledge of art history, the chest of drawers of knowledge from photography, lighting, art, colour palette, it helps us to be a stronger prompt writer. When the tool is in the hands of a team of people who have good taste and have a vocabulary to train the AI, then you鈥檙e going to get a better result,鈥 she continues. 鈥淚t鈥檚 designed with AI, but it鈥檚 very designed because there is a vision.鈥

Pum鈥檚 AI explorations were driven by her inquisitive nature. 鈥淎s an entrepreneur and a designer, you have to be curious. After 20 years in business, you have to always stay curious,鈥 she says. And that curiosity has always pushed her forwards in one way or another. It pushed her, for example, to leave Bangkok for the United States as a foreign exchange student.

鈥淚 just wanted my freedom, I wanted my life,鈥 she says. 鈥淚 wanted to create my own destiny and see where it was going to take me.鈥

She laughs that she couldn鈥檛 even order a McDonald鈥檚 when she first arrived, let alone do the required learning about the structure of the US government. As a determined, straight A student, she powered on, translating everything word-for-word with her Thai dictionary. The hard work paid off and she ended up with a scholarship to study design. 

It was during an internship at a branding agency in DC where she met her husband-to-be Jake. That turned into her first and only full time job before Design Army, and she ended up running a huge creative team. 鈥淚 feel like I got an MBA from that job,鈥 she says, explaining that she learned about the nuts and bolts of running a business - though she also learned what she didn鈥檛 want her own company to be: big and unwieldy. That鈥檚 why Design Army will always be a boutique.

It鈥檚 also why Design Army has been built to combine commerciality and creative satisfaction, or as Pum puts it, pay and purpose. There are the major global clients like PepsiCo and Netflix and JW Marriott and the smaller businesses and creative organisations like , Georgetown Opticians and the Hong Kong Ballet - and Design Army鈥檚 exacting standards apply equally to both. But Pum also says that there鈥檚 a value in the smaller budget clients that have more creative latitude but less of a platform. 鈥淵ou have to have purpose projects because people need to feel like they are growing and learning,鈥 she says, explaining that these clients allow for innovation (which ultimately benefits the corporate clients) and help Design Army to retain its talent.

鈥淎s a company owner, our job is recruiting and keeping the best people. Our job is to inspire them to bring whatever they dream of, empower them to create their own voice. But at the same time you also want to make sure that, for the client that we serve, the client that trusts in us, whatever we dream also has to move their business objectives as well because otherwise design is just art,鈥 explains Pum. 鈥淭he difference is I approach design as art and that鈥檚 why the client likes it. The client expects it. If you want a straight branding agency, you can go to 20 places, that鈥檚 all they do - branding , logo, graphic, standard. But if you want a different point of view, more artistic, something cultural and emotional, that will make you fall in love, we are the right people.

Pum takes the responsibility of leadership seriously - acknowledging that designers are, by their nature, often very emotionally-driven and require a personalised approach. That means, as we鈥檝e seen, creating space for the introverts and quieter voices, and it also means setting the tone and culture. 鈥淎nd as a leader you have to infect everyone with your passion, because people can feel it, the client can feel it when you show the work. The design team can feel it if you just want to get it done,鈥 she says. 鈥淟eadership is very important.鈥

And, in her own way, Pum has shown leadership beyond the boundaries of Design Army, particularly as a female creative entrepreneur in the industry. She recalls joining the One Show鈥檚 board of directors a decade ago, where she was one of just three women. It was intimidating, she says, being surrounded by the big stars of the industry and feeling dramatically outnumbered - and at first she struggled to make her voice heard. But, with time, she鈥檚 stepped up and, this coming May, she will become the chair. Incidentally, the One Show鈥檚 gender split has become much more equal too, with 12 out of 27 board members being women.

She鈥檚 also blazed a trail for creative entrepreneurs who don鈥檛 want to choose between parenthood and business success - an inspiration for both men and women to be sure, but in an industry that still penalises motherhood she鈥檚 a real beacon. Pum and Jake became parents shortly after Design Army was founded and by including her young daughter in her work life, Pum鈥檚 managed to craft a path that works.

But then, if we鈥檝e learned anything from Pum, it鈥檚 that she鈥檚 not content to just do things as they鈥檝e always been done, when there鈥檚 the possibility to design something different, to set a new vision.

鈥淚鈥檓 not interested in being like anyone else,鈥 she says.

Credits
Work from Design Army
Adventures in A-EYE Posters
Georgetown Opticians
29/10/2024
Tutu Academy - Print
Hong Kong Ballet
29/10/2024
Never Stand Still
Hong Kong Ballet
29/10/2024
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